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Seeded
Bermudagrass Establishment:
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Seedbed
Preparation
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| Preparing a good
seedbed is critical to establishment and can help prevent problems
that are hard to correct later. |
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| Soil
Temperature |
| Planting dates
for seeded bermudagrass vary based on climates. There is no one best
date to plant, but rather a planting window. Seeded bermudagrass varieties
should be planted in the spring when soil temperatures are consistently
above 650 F (180 C) at a four-inch depth. Optimum soil temperatures
for bermudagrass growth and development are 75-850 F. |
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| In areas where
winter injury is a concern, seeded bermudagrass needs to be planted
at least 90 days before first frost. |
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USDA
Climatic Zone
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Plant
After
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Plant
Before
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6
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June 1
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July 15
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7
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May 15
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Aug. 1
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8
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May 1
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Aug. 15
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9
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April 15
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Sept. 30
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10
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April 1
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Sept. 30
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| Soil
Test |
| A soil test should
be performed to assess the fertility needs and pH of the soil. If
a soil test is not obtained, it is generally advisable to apply a
balanced fertilizer containing N, P, & K. Your local Extension
Agent or fertilizer representative can provide recommendations for
your area. A soil pH outside the optimum range of 6.0-7.5 should be
adjusted to provide a more favorable growing environment. Elemental
Sulfur or gypsum can be added to lower soil pH, lime can be added
to raise soil pH. To find a soil lab in your area, refer to the listing
available on the Seeds West website at http://www.seedswest.com/PSIsl.htm |
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| Remove
Weeds |
| Use a non-selective
herbicide just prior to planting to kill weeds or undesirable turf
that may compete with the new seedlings. This is important for perennial
warm season turf that may already exist on the site such as weedy
off-type bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, bahiagrass, centipedegrass, kikuyugrass,
etc. that would be undesirable in the new turf or creeping perennial
weeds such as nutsedge, nimblewill, etc. In the Northern area of bermudagrass
adaptation (USDA zones 6-8a) it is necessary to spray out perennial
cool season grasses such as ryegrass, tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass,
etc. and perennial cool season weeds such as quackgrass, etc. that
could compete with your bermudagrass. Make sure that any herbicides
used do not have soil activity that could inhibit seed germination
or cause injury to seedlings. |
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| An alternative
method would be to control annual weeds with tillage. Rototill or
disk the area to be planted, wait approximately 2 weeks and rototill/disk
the area again. This approach may be advantageous if a large amount
of organic debris is present. Burying vegetation and thatch can help
organic matter decompose faster, leading to a cleaner, more desirable
seedbed. |
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| Heavy
Tillage |
| Apply starter
fertilizer and soil amendments to the soil surface and incorporate
using a disk, rototiller, or similar piece of equipment. When applying
fertilizer and amendments, apply one half in one direction and the
other half perpendicular to the direction of the first pass. Work
up the ground to a minimum depth of 6-8" but preferably 8-12"
using a disk or rototiller. Disking and rototilling will bury weeds,
organic matter, etc. and will provide a clean soil surface. Disking/roto-tilling
will eliminate/reduce layering in the soil profile, and improve tilth
and drainage of the soil. Incorporating fertilizer and amendments
will provide a deeper, healthier root zone for the young seedlings
and established turf. To have a healthy turf, you must have healthy
roots! |
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| If you have a
heavy clay soil or extremely sandy soil, the addition of organic matter
may be done prior to rototilling/disking. Organic matter will improve
soil structure, allowing for better drainage in a heavy clay soil.
In a sandy soil, organic matter will increase the water and nutrient
holding capacity of the soil. It is often necessary when disking/rototilling
to make 2-3 passes in different directions, or off-setting in the
same direction to incorporate materials to the desired depth and break
the soil clods to a small, desirable size. |
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| The amount of
tillage necessary depends on the particle size, soil structure, organic
matter, and moisture content of the soil. Soils should not be excessively
moist or dry before tillage. Sandy or loamy soils require less tillage
than a heavy clay soil. Soils with good soil structure or high organic
matter contents require less tillage than soils with poor soil structure
or low organic matter. If the soil is extremely hard or has an exceptionally
thick sward of vegetation, ripping the ground prior to rototilling/disking
would be desirable. |
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| Grading
and Leveling |
| For large areas
use a landplane, box scraper, or blade to achieve a final grade. For
home lawns and smaller areas, hand tools such as shovels and rakes
may be used. Make sure grades slope away from buildings, etc. Usually
a 1-1.75% grade is sufficient for surface drainage. If large fills
or cuts (4" rise or fall) are to be made in contouring the area
being planted, this should be done prior to step Heavy Tillage. |
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| Final
Preparation of the Soil Surface |
| The area being
planted should be rolled with a culti-packer, turf roller, or similar
device to firm the seedbed. Several passes may be necessary to achieve
the desired firmness. Cultipacking/rolling may also help to shatter
soil clods. If large soil clods still exist, further tillage may be
necessary. Use a rototiller set to a 2-4" depth, or surface grooming
using a rotary mulcher or fixed blade vertical mower set to a ½"
depth may be necessary. |
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A
cultipacker is being used to firm the soil surface
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For
smaller areas, a water ballast roller will work
well for firming the soil.
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This
seedbed looks good but . . .
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Closer
inspection reveals deep footprints in the
soft soil. This area should be rolled prior to planting.
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This
seedbed is firm enough to support
someone’s weight without sinking in too far.
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This
footprint is approximately ¾” deep, an
indication that the ground is too soft.
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This
seedbed is too firm. A
person walking across
it leaves almost no footprint.
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This
area has been firmed and smoothed to
provide an excellent seedbed.
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A fine,
firm seedbed is necessary for good bermudagrass establishment.
A fine seedbed is necessary to ensure a consistent planting
depth and good seed to soil contact. A firm seedbed ensures
that no settling will take place, as well as good seed to
soil contact. Soil should be firmed to 85% of compaction
or until walking across the seedbed leaves a footprint of
¼” or less.
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A
harrow can also be used to smooth the soil
surface before planting.
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Steel
netting can be used as a drag to prepare
the final seedbed surface.
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This
seedbed still contains large clods and has a rough appearance. Further preparation should be performed.
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This
is an optimum seedbed for planting. Note
the fine particle size.
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| Proper seedbed
preparation is critical for the establishment of the turf, and short
cuts should not be taken. Seedbed preparation is something that is
only performed once for the life of the turf site, and by providing
an optimum root zone for the establishment and future growth of the
turfgrass, many potential future headaches can be alleviated. |
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| Drainage issues
both sub-surface and surface should be addressed prior to the start
of seedbed preparation. During seedbed preparation you are providing
the future root zone for your established turf. Make sure that your
turf will have a healthy 6-12" root zone by eliminating soil
layering and providing proper soil pH and fertility. |
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